There is quite a diverse set of TVs and sound equipment being
used to play PS2 and PS3 games, but are you getting the best picture
and sound
out of the electronics you are using? If you said, "Yes!", ask yourself
truthfully, "How do I know,
for sure?" Just because you spent a few
hundred, or even a few thousand, dollars on new technology? This page
will help you adjust your picture and sound equipment to the best of
your abilities and the best of your equipment's abilities, with a
recognised standard set of tests.
Always near the forefront of PlayStation gaming, Gran Turismo 4 is one
of only a few PS2 games capable of displaying a high definition 1080i
image. So long as you have a TV capable of using this screen format,
you can lessen or eliminate some of the complaints players have with
the game,
such as "screen shake" and moire patterns. Other games which have had
compaints about PS2 graphics, such as ToCA 3, can also be improved, at
least to the best of the abilities of your hardware and software, using
the
techniques described here, too .
First Things
First
Protect your expensive computer and entertainment electronics by using
either surge protectors (for non-critical components) or a UPS for the
equipment that requires one: the console/PC (anything with a memory
storage device
in it), audio/video hardware (TV
and sound equipment) and any on-line equipment (modems, routers, etc.)
The $10 Monster PS600 surge protector, shown below, includes protection
for
your Ethernet cable and helps to indicate whether your electrical
outlet is wired properly, too, but it isn't enough to keep you on-line
on its own, during a dip in power. It was made for the PlayStation2,
but
more modern surge protectors will do their job even better and you
should be able to find ones that have more lightning protection for
both Internet and TV input cables. A
UPS
needs to have enough reserve to keep all of the right hardware working
properly when
writing files to the hard drive (PS3 and a few PS2s) or to mem-cards
(PS2 & PS3), and to keep your Internet
connection working if you are playing on-line, including sound and
video. Running a GT4 endurance race, which could mean the console is
left on
for a number of consecutive days, can also expose you to another
headache - having to restart after putting in a few hours of racing,
just because of a blip in the power supply! A surge powerbar plugged
into
one of the UPS outlets can help keep power cables in control, within
the
limits of
the UPS, so don't overload the UPS. Any break in power will
cause problems for most of your gaming equipment, one way or another.
With no surge protection at all and also power loss,
you run some pretty serious risks, so the small expense for a UPS is
worth every penny you invest in one compared to the inconvenience and
costs of having to replace damaged hardware.
A typical on-line PS2 (50 watts)
"station", with
a TV (100-180 or more watts) and other equipment, such as an audio
system
(80-160 watts), steering wheel and router, needs around 300 (or more)
watts of power to
keep things running continuously (your exact equipment will vary this
rating). The PS3 alone
requires around 380 watts and plasma TVs also suck up a lot of juice! So, when you buy a
UPS, buy one with enough
reserve to keep everything running long enough to at least keep an
on-line connection intact during short power breaks. For a 300 watt PS2
station, multiply the draw by 1.5 to 2 (now 450 to 600 watts) to create
a reserve for growth of your system and multiply by 1.43 to
get the target V-A value you need for a UPS to keep your system "up"
for a reasonable length of time, somewhere near 650 to 800VA. Of
course, you can probably get
away with the smaller capacity,
but usage under battery power won't last as long and you don't want to
draw its stored power down too much, if power stays out, because it can
damage the battery.
Remember that these batteries lose capacity or break down over time,
too, so you
should be prepared to replace the battery when necessary. Don't buy a
UPS that doesn't allow you to replace the battery yourself.
Before you start adjusting things, make sure your PS2 console is set up
properly by turning it on with no disc in its tray and go to the
Configuration
menu. Use the Up/Down arrows to find the aspect ratio and set it to the
right one (16:9 or 4:3) for the TV you will be adjusting. Check the
output cable type and set it to the
kind you use, RGB (composite or S-video) or component. Set the sound to
Optical, if you can
use the PS2's optical output port with your audio system. If you are
using a PS3, then follow its own set-up procedure.
Monster has a simple diagram describing most ways of wiring a PS2
to other
equipment. It shows duplicate wiring, so pick the one you use.
Your HD
Television
Before you buy a high definition TV, make
sure you know what you are actually buying and if you will be sitting
in a viewing position where you will actually benefit from all those
tiny pixels. For PS3 consoles, it takes a native resolution of
1920x1080 to truely
display 1080p (i.e. 1080 lines of resolution), otherwise the
TV will display 1080i, 720p or less. At the moment, for consumers,
1080p is as good as
it gets, and TVs capable of displaying 1080p tend to be 40" or larger - the
smallest 1080p TV I have seen was 32" (Sharp
Aquos - LC32D62U).
Typically, smaller LCD (liquid
crystal display) TVs use 720p
because 1080i is not a native resolution for LCD screens. The first
value (1920) defines how
many
dots per scan line are used across the screen; the second value (1080)
defines how many scan lines there are, stacked from the top to the
bottom of the screen. If your
TV
doesn't have that native resolution of
1920x1080 (and ignoring upscalers), your TV is changing the HD 1080p
output to 1080i (if it even
has this resolution), or scaling
to
720p or less, or the CRT screen may use 1080i, which is a native CRT HD
format. It's just that CRT screens rarely have all of the scan lines
you really need to get the full benefit of 720p or higher resolutions.
If you have a
4:3 TV screen shape driven by a PS3, there is no way to see the full HD
advantage because that beautiful, wide-screen, 16:9 Blu-ray movie image, for
example, is being mapped physically over a smaller set of pixels
(something not equal to 1:1 with 1080p) or CRT dots than what the full
image
normally
requires to see everything.
Remember that your
extensive DVD library is only in 480p,
too, so let me ask you a question. If your TV is actually bumping any
1080 resolution image down to 720p (many TVs must do this) or even to
480p
(as the current PS3's frequently must do),
when are you ever
going to see a real HD 1080p
image? The PS3 can feed the HD image to your TV, but you will only see
it
if, and only if, your media is high definition and TV is capable of
using it fully. Having said all
of that, though, an LCD displaying 720p will be
difficult for the untrained eye to see the difference compared to
1080p, at a normal sitting distance
for casual viewing. Part of the reason for this is that LCDs can deliver more pixels per
given screen size than any other current display technology and smaller
LCD screens can have smaller pixels making them look very good compared
to some larger screens. The
PS2 can
output up to 1080i, too, but only a few PS2 games, such as Gran Turismo
4,
supply this resolution signal and, if your TV doesn't have the right
resolution, you can't use it, either.
To fully take advantage of the HD image, you need a native, progressive
1920x1080
display. How does a 1920x1080 screen
compare in size and shape to smaller, standard TV formats? Keep in mind
that this chart does not show the 1080i shape, which is close in size
to 720p.
The distance from the TV screen will
also affect whether you can actually perceive a difference between the
different screen resolutions, too. If you are sitting too far away, you
may be using a higher screen resolution that your eyes can't tell apart
from a lower screen resolution. Compare viewing distance with screen
resolutions with the following graph. The closer you sit to a high
definition screen, the more you will be able to get out of it. For
instance, to really "see" a difference with 1080p, at a 10' viewing
distance (not an unusual condition), the HD screen needs to be over 50"
in size, at the bare mimimum.
Another aspect of sitting distance from the screen is your field of
view. THX specifications give a range for viewing angles of 26 degrees
to 36 degrees. Another standards organization for movies gives a figure
in the middle of that range of 30 degrees. Therefore, viewing distance
and the natural human field of view will set the practical limits of
what TV screen size you should get and the resolution it should have.
THX Optimizer
To set up an audio (HTS, stereo or receiver, etc.) and video (TV)
system
properly, you need to start with a test system, most
commonly
a test DVD.
You could buy a high quality
test system, but you might already have a
useful one
now in your DVD library. If you have some of the 322+ THX DVD movies,
you do have the free THX Optimizer
set of tests, which is the main subject of this page. Even big
electronic companies, such as Pioneer,
have used this test system for adjusting their own TVs before running a
TV comparison, therefore, you should feel comfortable that this is a
respectable set of exclusive tests from Lucasfilm Ltd. Check your
video
library now to see if you can find a movie that has the THX Optimizer
on the DVD. Look for the THX Optimizer in the list of "Special
Features" or in the fine print near the bottom of the back cover.
Example
movies that have the Optimizer are TRON,
Terminator: 2 (the Extreme
2-disc edition), Pirates of the
Caribbean (2-disc edition), Titanic
and
some of Pixar's more
recent movies, such as Cars. The Incredibles and Toy Story have an advanced THX
Optimizer version,
but these enhanced tests are not described here, since they have
different instruction sets and they are not as well distributed yet.
To do the complete set of THX colour tests, you must
also order the THX's test glasses
for a $1, plus
shipping. You can get away with not using these glasses with some
tests,
but... if you want the best results, just order one as soon as you
can. Some TVs fed by component
signals won't allow you to use the
colour
tests that require the glasses, though, so check your TV controls
first,
to see if they are all operational. If you can't adjust the colours,
such as hue, you may not be able to make use of the glasses with that
TV driven by component cables. The glasses help you adjust colours
better than without using them,
though, so use them if you can.
The use of the standard THX Optimizer tests with an NTSC PlayStation 2
console will be
described here, to get the TV set up best with just the console. You
can,
obviously, use your normal DVD player to do the same tests, but use the
PS2 or PS3 here, just to be sure you are setting the TV and sound
system up
properly for use with the console first, especially if you have a PS3
and
especially if your console is going to be used exclusively with one
TV. There were some differences found when using the test with
difference DVD players, including the PS2, so you may have to choose
which video player to use as your testing "standard".
THX Audio Tests
You have some background questions to answer before you start. Through
what
equipment will you broadcast sound? Will sound be sent through the TV's
speakers, headphones, speakers attached directly to the PS2 console or
will you connect through something like a home stereo or home theatre
system? Are the speaker wires fixed with RCA connectors or were they
connected
manually with some sort of colour-coded plug or screw connector to the
speakers? If they were connected manually, maybe by yourself, there is
a larger risk of a polarity error. How many speakers does your system
have (2, 2.1, 5.1 or more)? Are the speakers really where they should
be? This includes whether you are using the correct speaker distances
from the central point of where people will sit the majority of the
time. Good Home Theatre Systems allow setting individual distances for
each speaker, except the subwoofer. You may be able to set the volumes
for
individual speakers and you may also be able to use the A/V system to
equalize the sound output to match the room. Some A/V receivers have
different "hall" modes that give a certain "space" of feeling to the
sound. You
might want to skip some auto-tuning or auto-calibration by the A/V
receiver, for instance,
if you have a sound level meter and know how to use it, or if you find
the auto-adjusted sound is too bright. Read your AV equipment manuals
and check all of this before you start the THX Optimizer audio tests.
Because the PS2 is Dolby Prologic II enabled, it can feed a set of 5.1
speakers, the .1 speaker being the subwoofer. Proper placement of the
speakers will enhance your
experience, so use the guide below to locate each speaker the best you
can within your environment. You may also have to experiment with the
height of the corner speakers, too, but the Centre speaker is
"hard set" to be in the centre, near your TV, because many movies
concentrate dialogue there. As much as you are allowed, try to point or
focus
the small speakers towards your main sitting area (for the enjoyment of
the majority of listeners) because, otherwise, your ears may not pick
up
all of the very directional high frequencies well. The subwoofer can be
placed and
pointing almost anywhere because its sound is omni-directional, but it
is still recommended to place it near no obstructions and, of cource,
in open air. If you have a way of elevating the subwoofer off the floor
or if you can use coned (pointed) feet if it is sitting on the floor,
people in other rooms of the house (or in other apartments) may
appreciate hearing less rumble.
An observation: when you change the PS2's sound output configuration to
Optical, output through the RCA connectors still is supplied by the
video cable. This
means sound output can be available from the two PS2 sources, at the
same
time. You might want to control this extra output.
While you are waiting for the THX test glasses to arrive, let's deal
with
your system's sound. (I'll use the
TRON DVD. All THX tests on
this DVD are found
in the [System Set UP] menu.) Load up the THX Optimizer in the PS2 and
press X. (To navigate through the
PS2's controls with a DS2 controller, press the Select
button for the PS2's DVD controls. Press Select again to reposition the
controls lower and press it again to make them disappear.) Select the
Optimzer
menu item. You will then be presented with 3 button choices: Audio
Tests;
Video Tests; or the Main Menu. The THX Audio tests are pretty simple,
but there are a few things to clearly understand.
Select the Audio Tests button, then Play Test, on the right side. All
but the last audio tests repeat until you tell the program to advance.
These audio tests have certain limitations. None are designed to deal
with
volume levels, for example, so, to be
really precise with speaker volumes, either use the auto-calibration
system built into
your home theatre system, if there is one
(find your manual about using this), or use a sound level meter at your
seated position. You can buy these sound meters at RadioShack, for well
less than $100, or other good electronic supply stores. Otherwise, if
the feature is not available, you will have to set the distance for
each speaker in the home theatre system's configuration menu and sit in
your viewing position, to check the volume levels manually.
Test #1:Speaker Assignment
(Position)
Play audio test #1. This basic test allows you to check the placement
of each speaker. It helps determine if each speaker is getting sound
from the right source. If the noise sound is not coming from the same
speaker position as highlighted on the screen, then rewire or rearrange
all speaks til they do correspond to the proper positions. The THX
program has no idea what equipment it is played on, so if you are using
the TV's speakers or 2.0, 2.1 or 4.x speakers, 5.x or any other
combination
not shown (7.1), then the test may seem a bit odd testing speakers that
don't exist on your system, but use some logic and work with it. OK?
Let's move on. Press
R1.
Test #2:Speaker Phase
Some people don't understand what goes on with this test because the
instructions don't fully explain how to use the test if you don't know
how out off phase speakers sound. To be "in phase" means that the
speaker is wired correctly: positive wire to positive terminal;
negative to negative. It is either right or wrong. Look at the back of
your speakers, to see
what kind of connector was used. If the wires have soldered male banana
plugs or RCA
connectors on them, for example, then chances are that the manufacturer
soldered everything together properly, but the test will prove
whether that assumption is
correct. If you wired the speakers yourself with cut wires or with
coloured connectors, check again to be sure the positive (light colour
- red or white) wires and negative (dark - black) wires are connected
to the proper posts, at both ends of the wires, before you start. If
nothing else, this exercise is
a good education. Stand evenly between the speakers, in the middle of
them all, and play audio test #2. There are actually 4 speaker-pairs
tests.
Again, you hear 5 second bursts of white noise from pairs of speakers,
this time. If the polarity of each speaker is set correctly, then the
noise
will have a certain "feel" to it. First, the sound should feel
"centred"
and it should sound like it has a full range, with a good bottom end.
If
one or more speakers are out of phase, when they should be in phase for
each test,
the sound will feel more dispersed and the sound will be thinner with
much less low frequency noise. Compared to speakers being in phase,
sound from
out of phase speakers will sound weaker, spread out or "not as good as"
the in
phase
speaker sounds. Because the tests alternate between sound that is in
phase
and sound that is out of phase, one way or another, each pair of
speakers will get tested with
both types of sound. You will be able to
hear the difference, but it may take a while to understand which is
which. Take your time because out of phase speakers will taint your
sound. If you think a speaker is not wired properly, follow the
instructions on-screen and reverse the wires for the speaker marked
with red, and continue the test until that pair is right. If each pair of speakers
is OK, then move on. Press R1 to
advance to each pair of speakers. After testing the last pair, pressing
R1 advances to the next test.
Test #3:Subwoofer Crossover
If you are not using a subwoofer, press R1 again and you can advance to
the THX Video Tests section. Doing this test without a subwoofer will
prove nothing, but it will give you an idea of how low your system can
go, frequency-wise, or approximately how low you can actually hear the
lowest frequencies your system produces. You might be surprised.
Otherwise, follow the screen instructions and lower the system's
volume. Start the test. You will hear a partial frequency sweap out of
your front speakers and sub only til sound naturally stops at the
lowest frequency you can hear or that your audio system can produce.
Pay close attention because it only plays once and then the whole audio test
finishes automatically.
To use this test, listen for any breaks in the frequency sweep. If you
are using a subwoofer and your crossover works properly, then there
will be no perceptable gaps in the sweap signal. If there is a gap in
sound output, you need to deal with this, probably through the
manufacturer's customer or warranty services, because your system is not working properly - your system
is not sending out all of the sound data given to it.
THX Video Tests
Find your TV's remote control, if it allows you to adjust the video
settings. It will make life easier during these tests. From the THX
Optimizer's main menu, load the first video test. You may have to
repeat some of these tests after you have gone through the complete
video set of tests once.
Test #1:Contrast/Picture Set-up
This test helps you adjust the TV's contrast. You are presented with a
white box with 8 squares of 4 different shades of white. Adjust the
contrast until you think you have it "right" or what you think is
bright enough without washing out the distinctions between the
different shades.
What I tend to do is adjust contrast down til I don't see any more
changes in the black area around the screen edges. I figure that, if I
am not making the blacks any blacker, it doesn't need to be adjusted
lower; any higher and the blacks get lighter. On a few of the various
TVs I've adjusted, this tends to be near the middle of the contrast
setting, anyway.
When you think you have it right, press R1 to get the
next test.
Test #2:Brightness Set-up
Read and follow the on-screen instructions. Start the test. There are a
few things to look for, to get full benefit from this test and from
your TV. If your DVD player is capable of displaying a
drop-shadow (in this case, yes, the PS2 can display a drop-shadow to our
CRT TVs but some LCD TVs cannot use it), adjust
the brightness till the drop-shadow of the central "THX" logo just disappears. Another way
of doing this test, especially if your DVD player can't display a
drop-shadow, is to use the rows of ten shaded boxes, top and bottom.
Adjust the TV's brightness til the seventh lightest box disappears,
then
increase the brightness til you can just barely see the 7th box.
If you will also use this TV for watching movies, you might want to
error a bit on the lighter side of brightness, not darker. I
find on my various TVs that what seems
"good" during these tests
ends up being a bit too dark and the details in shadows in movies have
disappeared. Use your best judgment here - you may still need to fiddle
with settings regarding Tests #1 and 2, even after the whole set of
video tests are over, so be patient.
Note: Recent LCD and plasma TVs are very, very bright! If you are always
sitting closely to the screen, you should probably turn brightness down
a lot.
When finished with brightness, Press R1.
Test #3:Color & Tint Set-up (with the THX glasses)
If you use component cables, your LCD TV may ignore some
adjustments
during this test, so use
a PS2 S-video cable, if you have one (or just use the normal composite
cable, if
you don't), as
a starting point. My CRT TVs allowed using this test, but more than one
person has found that their LCD TV did
not.
Test #4 can be used to adjust colour, too, only without the THX
glasses, so you do have a back-up colour test you can use.
If you have not received your THX blue filter glasses yet, you cannot
make use of this test, so press R1 and advance to the next test, to set
up the TV's colour without them.
If you do have your THX
glasses, put them on and follow the on-screen
instructions. Depending on your levels of patience and attention to
detail, you should be able to match the letter colours pretty closely,
but maybe not perfectly. It is fairly tricky to get them all exactly matched. You will very
likely see some differences,
no matter how hard you try to match them all. If you are not using
component cables during this test, but you would use them during normal
use, then you will also be using different TV circuits, so you will
have to use test #4 anyway. When you think you have adjusted
the letter colours as closely as you
can, press R1.
Test #4:Monitor Performance (without
the THX glasses)
This is a multi-part test. Users who did Test #3 can still adjust
sharpness with this test.
Users without the special THX glasses can use this test to adjust the
TV's colour settings. If you used the THX glasses for Video Test #3,
there is less need to adjust colour settings now, unless you are going
to use component cables with some TVs, otherwise, follow the
on-screen instructions, at the top of the page, and Press R1 to
individually set up Red, Cyan
(light blue) and Magenta (purple).
Next, use the Sharpness control along with the bar of lines (the one
with two
large white arrows pointing at it, on the instructions page) to adjust
the video til the fine lines become "edgy", then back the adjustment
off until the lines look "better", not overly-enhanced. If you make it
"fuzzy" enough, a CRT will blur the fine lines into a solid gray mass,
so sharpen the display until you see the most separated lines on the
right
side. This test alone
can make a poorly performing CRT TV look as if it came alive again! On
our LCD
screen, there were a few messed up fine lines (on the far right side)
when the sharpeness was scaled higher or lower. Don't leave the
setting adjusted with any
non-straight lines. Colour CRT TVs
especially will show a bunch of moire colour patterns in the middle of
the fine
black and white lines. That is not unusual (it's a mechanical problem
with CRT screens), but if you can lessen the
moired "colour"
effect with the Sharpness control, then do so.
When
finished, press R1.
Test #5:4:3 Aspect Ratio Check
Read the on-screen instructions. Normal CRT TVs should have no trouble
with this test. Look for a perfect circle and straight
edges to the outer rectangles. All of the outer rectangle should be
visible. Now is the time to make sure the
rectangular lines are centred both left/right and up/down, if your TV can adjust this now. If
not,
and you think it really needs adjusting still, you may need to consult
your TV's manual or a TV technician, to see what is possible.
Some 16:9 LCD TVs may not have a 4:3 setting and you may not be able to
use the test fully with them.
Test #6:16:9 Aspect Ratio Check
Read the on-screen instructions. Normal CRT TVs should have no trouble
with this test. Look for a perfect circle and straight
edges to the outer rectangles. All of the outer rectangle should be
visible. Now is the time to make sure the
rectangular lines are centred both left/right and up/down, if your TV can adjust this now. If
not,
and you think it really needs adjusting still, you may need to consult
your TV's manual or a TV technician, to see what is possible.
Remember that 16 / 9 = 1.78, therefore the greatest benefit of
centering the rectangular box will be displaying the greatest amount of
image from games or movies with this exact ratio. Any ratio larger than
this, such as 2.40:1, will result in having larger black bars above and
below the
image, even on wide-screen TVs, especially if the movie has not been
reformatted anamorphically.
When ready, press R1.
Test #7:Final Test
Read the on-screen instructions. You can safely skip this test, as it
only shows you a sample clip from the feature movie on your disc. Tron has such an enhanced colour
scheme that the sample clip is useless as a test. Instead, play a DVD
movie that
has a lot of naturally lit scenes and watch for loss of detail in
shadow areas and for natural skin-tones. If the TV that is
connected to this PS2 will also play movies through other DVD devices,
then you may, at some
point, have to compromise with the settings, for one source or another.
After you have finished all THX Optimizer tests, you can be reasonably
assured your video and audio equipment is adjusted to more accurate and
more appropriate settings. If you feel something still isn't quite
"right" yet, you now have the test system, knowledge and experience and
to go
back and make it
right.